Free Patterns of the Week!

This weeks free patterns are Socks from KnitPicks. Everyone loves warmth, so make those you love something warm for their feet!

Top Down Socks

Notes: This is a simple top down sock, perfect for those wanting to practice their sock making skills. This pattern is easily adaptable for DPNs, Magic Loop or 2 circulars so you can use your favorite knitting method. For the perfect fit, measure around the widest part of your foot for the circumference and choose the size slightly smaller than your measurement (for instance, if your foot is 7.5” around, knit the 7” size). Then measure the bottom of your foot, from heel to longest toe to determine the foot length.

This pattern was written with a 5.5” leg length -but you can make it shorter or longer; however if you do the latter you may need an additional skein of yarn.

For a tutorial on the Long Tail Cast On, please see http://tutorials.knitpicks.com/wptutorials/long-tail-cast-on/

Kitchener Stitch
Hold the two pieces of knitting parallel to one another with the wrong sides facing. Thread the working yarn with a yarn needle.

*Insert the yarn needle knitwise into the first stitch on the front knitting needle. Draw through the stitch and slip the stitch off  of the front needle. Insert the yarn needle purlwise into the next stitch on the front knitting needle. Draw through the stitch. Leave the stitch on the needle. Insert the yarn needle purlwise into the first stitch on the back knitting needle. Draw through the stitch and slip the stitch off of the back needle. Insert the yarn needle knitwise into the next stitch on the back knitting needle. Draw through the stitch. Leave the stitch on the needle. Repeat these steps beginning at the * until all of your stitches have been grafted together.

Directions
Leg
CO 44 (48, 56, 60, 64) using Long Tail Cast On or other CO method. 22 (24, 28, 30, 32) sts will be for instep, 22 (24, 28, 30, 32) will be for the heel. Divide over your needles; for DPNs, it is easiest is to have your heel sts on one DPN and instep sts divided evenly between 2 DPNs - 11 (12, 14, 15, 16) sts on each instep DPN. If you prefer using 5 DPNs, divide both heel & instep sts evenly over the 4 needles but be sure remember which sts are your heel and instep. For 2 circulars or Magic Loop Method, each side will have 22 (24, 28, 30, 32) st. For all methods, PM to indicate heel st and join to knit in the round, making sure not to twist sts.

Next Rnd: *K1, P1* rep between ** to end of round.

Rep rnd for 1”.

Next Rnd: K all sts.

Rep rnd until leg is 5.5” long.


Heel Flap
You will be working back & forth on only the 22 (24, 28, 30, 32) heel sts for this section.
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, K to end.
Row 2 (WS): *Sl1, p1* rep to end,
Rep rows 1-2 an additional 10 (11, 13, 14, 15) times, 11 (12, 14, 15, 16) sl sts on each side of heel flap.
Turn the Heel
Row 1 (RS): Sl1 K 12 (13, 15, 16, 17), ssk, k1 turn (there will be a gap after the k1). 1 st dec.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, p5, p2tog, p1 turn (there will be a gap after the p1). 1 st dec.
Row 3: Sl1, k to 1 st before the gap, ssk (1 st from each side of the gap), k1 turn. 1 st dec.
Row 4: Sl1, p to 1 st before the gap p2tog (1 st from each side of the gap), p1, turn. 1 st dec.
Repeat rows 3-4 until all sts have been worked.

Gusset
You will now begin to work in the round again. If using 4 DPNs, you may want to now put all instep stitches on one needle and divide the heel stitches between 2 needles.

Next Rnd: K across heel sts, then PU and k 11 (12, 14, 15, 16) sl sts along heel flap, PU & k 2 sts at top of gusset, k 22 (24, 28, 30, 32) across instep stitches, PU & k 2 sts at top of gusset, PU & k 11 (12, 14, 15, 16) along heel flap.

K across remaining heel sts, then k across instep. You are now at the start of the heel sts, pm to mark beginning of round.
Rnd 1: K1, SSK, k to last 3 sts of heel k2tog, k1, k across instep sts. 2 heel sts dec.
Rnd 2:: K all sts
Rep rnds 1-2 until you have 22 (24, 28, 30, 32) on the heel sts, 44 (48, 56, 60, 64) total.



Foot
Work in St st until total length is 2 (2, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5)” less than the total foot length, measuring from the back of the heel to the live sts.

Toe
Rnd 1: *K1, ssk, k to last 3 heel sts, k2tog, k1* rep between ** over instep sts. 4 sts dec.
Rnd 2: k all sts.
Rep rnds 1-2 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) more times until 4 (6, 6, 8, 10) sts remain for heel and 4 (6, 6, 8, 10) for instep - 8 (12, 12. 16. 20) sts total. Break yarn, leaving an 12” tail. If using DPNs, place instep stitches on one needle and heel stitches on one needle. Graft instep and heel sts together using Kitchener Stitch.

Finishing
Weave in ends and block to measurements.

The Original Patterns can be found at http://www.knitpicks.com/cfPatterns/Pattern_List_Filtered.cfm?PROJECT-TYPE=30025218&FREE-PAID=Free&showAll=yes

Free Patterns of the Week!

This weeks free patterns are Socks from KnitPicks. Everyone loves warmth, so make those you love something warm for their feet!

Go your own way socks - Toe Up Socks



Finished Measurements
6 (7, 8, 8.5 9)” foot circumference, customizable foot length and 5.5” leg length

Needles
US 2 (2.75mm): DPNs or (2) circular needles for two circular needles technique or 1 long circular needle for Magic Loop or size to optain gauge

Notions
Yarn Needle
Stitch Markers

Gauge
28 sts and 40 rows = 4” in stockinette stitch in the round, blocked.

Toe Up Socks
Notes: This is a simple toe up sock, perfect for those wanting to practice their sock making skills. This pattern is easily adaptable for DPNs, Magic Loops or 2 circulars so you can use your favorite knitting method. For the perfect fit, measure around the widest part of your foot for the circumference and choose the size slightly smaller than your measurement (for instance, if your foot is 7.5” around, knit the 7” size). Then measure the bottom of your foot, from heel to longest toe to determine the foot length. This pattern was written with a 5.5” leg length -but you can make it shorter or longer; however if you do the latter you may need an additional skein of yarn.

For a tutorial on Judy’s Magic Cast On, please see: http://tutorials.knitpicks.com/wptutorials/judys-magic-cast-on/.

Wrap and Turn (w&t):
Work until the stitch to be wrapped. If knitting: bring yarn to the front of the work, slip next st as if to purl, return the yarn to the back; turn work and slip wrapped st onto RH needle. Continue across row. If purling: bring yarn to the back of the work, slip next st as if to purl, return the yarn to the front; turn work and slip wrapped st onto RH needle. Continue across row.

Picking up wraps
Work to the wrapped st. If knitting, insert the RH needle under the wrap(s), then through the wrapped st K-wise. Knit the wrap(s) together with the wrapped st. If purling, slip the wrapped st P-wise onto the RH needle, and use the LH needle to lift the wrap(s) and place them on the RH needle. Slip wrap(s) and 
unworked st back to LH needle; purl all together through the back loop.

Stretchy Bind-off
K2, *insert the left needle into the front of the 2 sts on the right needle and knit them together - 1 st remains on right needle. K1*, rep between ** until all sts have been bound off.

Directions
Toe
Using Judy’s Magic Cast On, CO 4 (6, 6, 8, 10) sts for the instep and 4 (6, 6 8, 10) sts for the heel. K one round, dividing st between needles. For DPNs, it is easiest to have your heel sts on one DPN and instep sts divided evenly divided between 2 DPNs - 2 (3, 3, 4, 5) sts on each DPN. If you prefer using 5 DPNs, divide both heel & instep sts evenly between the 4 worrking needles, but be sure to remember which sts are your heel and instep. For 2 circulars or Magic Loop Method, each side will have 4 (6, 6, 8, 10) st. For all methods, PM to indicate heel sts and beg of round.

Rnd 2: *Kfb in the first st, k to 2 sts before the end of the heel sts, kfb, k1*; rep across instep sts. 4 sts inc.

Rnd 3: K all sts

Rep rnds 2-3 an additional 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) times. 44 (48, 56, 60, 64) sts total, 22 (24, 28, 30, 32) st for the heel and 22 (24. 28, 30, 32) sts for the instep.

Foot
Work in St st until total length is 3.5 (4, 4.75, 5, 5.25)” less than the total foot length.

Gusset
Increases will only be on the heel sts, instep will be in St st. 

Rnd 1: Kfb in the first st, k to 2 sts before end of the heel sts, kfb, K1, k across instep sts to end of round. 2 heel sts inc.
Rnd 2: k all sts
Rep rnds 1-2 an additional 9 (10, 12, 13, 14) times, then work rnd 1 once more. 66 (72, 84, 90, 96) sts total, 44 (48, 56, 60, 64) st for the heel and 22 (24, 28, 30, 32) for the instep.

Heel
You will be working back & forth on only the heel sts for this section.
Row 1 (RS): K 32 (35, 41, 44, 47) w&t
Row 2 (WS): P 20 (22, 26, 28, 30) w&t
Row 3: K to st before wrapped st, w&t
Row 4: P to st before wrapped st, w&t
Repeat rows 3-4 until 7 (8, 9, 10, 10) sts are wrapped on either side of the 8 (8, 10, 10, 12) center unwrapped sts. RS should be facing after working a row 4.

You will work 1 round over both heel & instep sts as follows:
Next Rnd: K to end of heel sts, picking up wraps as you come to them, then k across instep sts. You should now be at the beginning of the heel sts.

Heel Flap
You will be working back & forth on only the heel sts for this section.
Row 1 (RS): K 32 (35, 41, 44, 45) sts, picking up remaining wraps, SSK, turn. 1 st dec.
Row 2 (WS): *Sl1, p1* rep between ** 10 (11, 13, 14, 15) times, Sl1, p2tog, turn. 1 st dec.
Row 3: Sl1, k20 (22, 26, 28, 30), ssk, turn. 1 st dec.
Row 4: *Sl1, p1* rep between ** 10 (11, 13, 14, 15) times, sl1, p2tog, turn. 1 st dec.
Rep rows 3-4 an additional 8 (9, 11, 12, 13) times, then work row 3 once more but do not turn at end. You will now begin to work in the round again. K across instep sts to beg of heel sts.
Next Rnd: K2tog, k all sts to end. 44 (48, 56, 60, 64) sts.
Leg
Next Rnd: K all sts
Rep this round until leg is 4.5” from the top of the heel flap or to 1” less than desired finished length.
Next rnd: *K1, P1* rep between ** to end of round.
Rep rnd for 1”, then BO using Stretchy Bind-Off.
Finishing
Weave in ends and block to measurements.

The Original Patterns can be found at http://www.knitpicks.com/cfPatterns/Pattern_List_Filtered.cfm?PROJECT-TYPE=30025218&FREE-PAID=Free&showAll=yes

Free Pattern of the Week!

This weeks free pattern is Semplice Fingerless Mitts from KnitPicks.

Finished Measurements 6” (7”, 8”) palm circumference
Needles US 3 (3.5 mm) DPNs or 40” or longer circulars for Magic Loop

Twisted Rib Pattern *K1tbl, p1 repeat from * for pattern 

Directions CO 36 (42, 48) stitches, pm for beginning of the round, and join to work in the round, taking care not to twist stitches 

Work for 1” in Twisted Rib Pattern 

Work 2” (2.5” 3”) in st st 

Begin increases for thumb 

Set up round: K1, pm k to 1 stitch before the end of the round, pm K1 

Round 1: Knit to 1 stitch before 1st marker, Kf&b, sm, k to next marker, sm, Kf&b, k to end of round. 2 stitches increased. 

Round 2: k all stitches 

Repeat these 2 rounds 4 (5, 6) more times.

Set thumb aside 

K to second marker, remove marker, K 1, sl next 5 (6, 7) stitches to holder or waste yarn. 

Remove start of round marker. Sl first 5 (6,7) stitches of the next round to holder or waste yarn. 

Place marker for new beginning of the round and join to work in the round. 

Work 1” (1.5”, 2”) in st st or until 1” below desired length Work 1” in Twisted Rib pattern BO loosely. 

This can be achieved by BO with a larger needle, or using a stretchy bind off such as the one below: K2, *insert the left needle into the front of the 2 sts on the right needle and knit them together--1 st remains on right needle. K1, repeat from * until all sts have been bound off. 

Fasten off last stitch. 

Thumb Join yarn and PU & knit 10 (12, 14) thumb stitches from waste yarn, then PU & knit 4 st from join at side of hand. 

PM and join to work in the round Next round: k to last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2tog. 

12 (14, 16) st total. Work .5” (.75” 1”) in st st or to .25” below desired length K 3 rounds in Twisted Rib pattern BO loosely 

Finishing: Weave in all ends and make second mitt exactly like the first.

The Original Pattern can be found at http://www.knitpicks.com/patterns/Semplice_Fingerless_Mitts__D55478220.html

Free Pattern of the Week!

This weeks free pattern is Dwell House from KnitPicks.

Finished Measurements 3” tall, 3” long, 2” wide
Needles US 1 (2.25 mm) DPNs or 40” or longer circulars for Magic Loop

A quick note about foam blocks - simple florist foam is delicate and easily crushes and fl akes. If you want to avoid this, there are more solid and sturdy blocks that can be used for this purpose. 

DIRECTIONS 

Foam House 

Begin by cutting the house shape from the foam block. Use a pair of scissors to slice a piece of foam off one block that measures 3” high x 3” long x 2” wide. Then, use scissors to shave off the excess foam at the top to form a peaked roof. To do this, measure 1” from the top of the block and scored a shallow line at 1” along both long sides. Find the center at the top of the block and make a shallow mark there as well; this will be the “peak” of the cottage roof. The center mark and side scores mark the three points of the triangle. Using the scissors, place the tip of the blade at the mark that was made at the “peak” of the house and angle the blade so that it intersected with the score marked earlier. Press down while maintaining the angle until the scissors completely cut through the foam block. Repeat on the remaining side. Measure the sides of the house and clean up the edges, making sure your walls and the roof are straight and even. 

Cottage Base

 CO 60 sts with CC1. 

Arrange the stitches between four double pointed needles as follows: needles 1&3 have 18 sts each and needles 2&4 have 12 sts each. 

Join to work in the round. 

Work 4 rounds garter stitch followed by stockinette stitch until piece measures 2” from the cast-on edge. 

Gables

Needle 4 (12 sts) will be your fi rst gable. At the end of needle 4 instead of continuing to knit in the round, turn work and work one purl row across needle 4. 

Row 1: Turn work, ssk, knit across needle 4 until last two stitches, k2tog. 

Row 2:Turn, purl one row.

Repeat rows 1 & 2 until two stitches remain, k2tog, break yarn, leaving a 4 inch tail and draw through remaining stitch. 

Needle 2 (12 sts) will be your second gable. Join yarn to the wrong side of needle 2 and work one purl row across needle 2. 

Row 1:Turn work ssk, knit across needle 4 until last two stitches, k2tog. 

Row 2: Turn, purl one row. 

Repeat rows 1 & 2 until two stitches remain, k2tog, break yarn, leaving a 4 inch tail and draw through the remaining stitch. 

Roof 

Using CC2, join yarn to the right side of needle 3. 

Work garter stitch for 1.5 “. 

Leave the stitches on the needle for now and break yarn, leaving a 4 inch tail. Using CC2, join yarn to the right side of needle 1. 

Work garter stitch for 1.5 “. 

End with a right side row. 

Hold Needle 3 and Needle 1 together and bind off stitches on both needles using the Three Needle Bind off method. Use the tails to stitch the Gables to roof edges. 

Door

Use the scissors to round off one narrow side of the dark piece of felt to create a rounded door. Sew to front of cottage with dark thread. Cut two windows from the piece of off-white felt and sew to one wall of the cottage using light thread. Gently ease the knit shell over the foam base until the shell completely covers the foam. Ta dah! One cozy dwelling. 

The Original Pattern can be found at http://www.knitpicks.com/patterns/Dwell_House_Pattern__D51028220.html

Free Pattern of the Week!

This weeks free pattern is Snowman Draft Stopper from KnitPicks.

Finished Measurements Approximately 36” long x 6” circumference, depending on amount of filling.
Needles US 5 (3.75mm) DPNs

This tall, thin snowman will keep the cold air out and the holiday fun in. The top hat, scarf, face, and body are knitted stripes. The eyes, mouth, nose, and buttons are embroidered. After embroidering, sew one end closed, fill with lentils and sew the other end closed. 

Sized to lay the length of the average exterior door, you can easily make it shorter for an interior door or windowsill. 

To facilitate embroidery, roll the top down like you would a tube sock. 

Seed Stitch Pattern (in the round over an odd number of sts) 

Round 1: *K1, P1; rep from * to end of rnd. 

Round 2: *P1, K1; rep from * to end of rnd. 

Repeat these 2 rnds for pattern. 

Stockinette Stitch (in the round) All Rounds: K all stitches . 

Directions 

With C1, CO 39 sts, leaving a long tail to sew the end closed. Arrange 13 sts on each of 3 needles. Place marker and join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist the line of sts. Work 3” of St st. Then work 1” in Seed st. Break C1. (Top hat complete.) 

Join MC and work 3” of St st. Break MC. (Face complete.) 

Join C2 and K 1 rnd. Then work 1” in Seed st. Break C2. (Scarf complete.) Join MC and work body in St st until piece measures 33” from beg, or 2–3” short of desired length. (Lentils will weigh down and lengthen the snowman.) Work 1” in Seed st. 

BO all sts, decreasing 1 st so that you have an even number of sts (38) to sew closed, and leaving a long tail. 

Finishing 

Using C1 and C2, embroider the face and buttons using the photo as a guide—or use your creativity to make your own face. Secure ends and weave in, if desired. 

Fold the tube in half, making sure to orient the face on one side, and sew one end closed; weave in end. Working a little at a time, fill the snowman with lentils, stopping 2–3” before it’s completely full. (A measuring cup with a pour spout is helpful for this.) Lay the snowman out and adjust the filling as necessary. Sew the other end closed using the same halves as the first end. Weave in end.

The Original Pattern can be found at http://www.knitpicks.com/patterns/Snowman_Draft_Stopper__D55678220.html

Free Pattern of the Week!

This weeks free pattern is Chevron Cherub Wrap from KnitPicks.

Finished Measurements 32” wide x 29” long
Needles US 5 (3.75mm) 24” circular needles,

Alternating colors on eyelet-laced chevron rows surrounded by a garter stitch border are created using stockinette stitch, yarn overs, and the central double decrease for skill building. Knit in monochromatic shades or contrasting colors, the stitch pattern is easily memorized while providing interest for the knitter. 

Central Double Decrease (CDD) 

Slip 2 sts together Kwise, knit the next stitch, then pass the 2 slipped sts over. 2 sts dec. 

Body Stitch Pattern (worked flat) 

Row 1: K5, SSK, *K13, YO, K1, YO, K13, CDD*, repeat from * to * 4 times, K13, YO, K1, YO, K13, K2tog, K5. 

Row 2: K5, P all sts until 5 sts remain, K5. 

Repeat rows 1 and 2 for pattern. 

Directions

Loosely CO 161 sts using MC.

K 6 rows in garter stitch. 

Switch to CC and work rows 1 and 2 of Body Stitch Pattern for 6 rows. 

Switch to MC and work rows 1 and 2 of Body Stitch Pattern for 6 rows. 

Continue knitting in pattern as established, switching between MC and CC every 6 rows until blanket measures approximately 28” ending with CC. 

Switch to MC and K 6 rows in garter stitch. 

Loosely bind off Kwise, cut yarn. 

Finishing Weave in ends, wash, and block if desired. 

The Original Pattern can be found at http://www.knitpicks.com/patterns/Chevron_Cherub_Wrap__D55655220.html

Free Pattern of the Week!

This weeks free pattern is Hyde Park Hat from KnitPicks.

Finished Measurements 20.5 (22, 23.5)” finished brim circumference; hat is meant to be worn with 1” of negative ease. Depth is 8” for non-slouch version and 10.5” for slouch version.
Hooks US F/5 (3.75mm) for brim, US G/6 (4.00mm) for body

Directions for smaller size are shown first, followed by medium and large in parenthesis where different. The brim is crocheted first then the rest of the hat is crocheted upward to the crown; the brim is folded under and elastic may be added for a snug fit. Work a shorter depth for the non-slouch version or deeper for the slouch version. 

SC INC (single crochet increase) Work 2 SC into same st. 

DC DEC (double crochet decrease) Worked over 2 sts, YO, insert hook into 1st st, YO and pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops on hook, YO, insert hook in 2nd st, YO and pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops on hook, YO and pull through all 3 loops on hook. 

4 DC-Shell Work 4 DC all in the same st. 

3 DC-Cluster 3 DC all worked in same st: (YO, insert hook in space, YO and pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops) 3 times, YO and pull through all 4 loops on hook. 

Directions 

Brim With smaller hook, Ch 110 (118, 126), or a multiple of 4 + 2 sts to fit around your head. 

Row 1: SC in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end. (109 [117, 125] sc). Measure to ensure the chain fits desired head circumference 

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc, now and throughout), turn. DC in 2nd sc and in each sc across row. Count your sts and write down the count so you can keep track. Join with a Sl St to 3rd ch of starting ch-3, being careful not to twist work. The rest of the hat is worked in rounds. Join the end of each row with a Sl St to the start stitch of the row, then turning to work back. 

Row 3 (WS): Ch 1, turn. SC in 1st dc and in each dc across row. Join with a sl st to 1st sc of row (count your sts!). Place marker after Row 3 to indicate fold line for brim. 

Row 4 (RS): Rep Row 2. Count your stitches! If you do not happen to have a multiple of 4 + 1 sts, in the next row work as many SC INC as needed (evenly spaced around row) to force a multiple of 4 + 1 sts. 

Row 5 (WS): Rep Row 3 (SC INC as necessary to force a multiple of 4 + 1 sts). Join with Sl St to 1st sc of row. 

Body 

Change to larger hook for the rest of the hat. 

Row 6 (RS): Ch 1, turn. SC in 1st sc, *Ch 4, Sk 3 sc, SC in next sc; rep from * across to end of row, join with Sl St to 1st sc. (27 [29, 31] ch-4 sp). 

Row 7 (RS): Ch 3, do not turn. Work 4 DC-Shell in 1st ch-4 sp, *work 4 DC-Shell in next ch-4 sp; rep from * around, join with Sl St to 3rd ch of starting ch-3. (27 [29, 31] Shells). 

Row 8 (WS): Ch 3, turn, Work 4 DC-Shell between 2nd and 3rd dc of 1st 4 dc-Shell, * work 4 DC-Shell between 2nd and 3rd dc of next 4 dc-Shell; rep from * around, join with Sl St to 3rd ch of starting ch-3. 

Row 9 (RS): Rep Row 8. 

Row 10 (WS): Ch 1, turn. SC in each dc around to tch, SC in 3rd ch of tch, join with Sl St to starting sc. (Mult of 4 + 1 sc, count them!) 

Row 11 (RS): Ch 3, turn. SC in 2nd sc and in each sc across, join with Sl St to 3rd ch of starting ch-3. (Mult 4 + 1 dc). 

Row 12 (RS): Ch 3, do not turn. Continue working with RS facing, DC in 2nd dc and in each dc around, join with Sl St to 3rd ch of starting ch-3. (Count and make sure you still have a mult of 4 + 1 dc). 

Row 13 (RS): Rep Row 12. 

Row 14 (WS): Ch 1, turn. SC in 1st dc and in each dc around to tch, SC in 3rd ch of tch, join with Sl St to starting sc. (Mult 4 + 1 sc). 

For Non-Slouch Version only, work Rows 15-20 below: Rows 15-20: Repeat Rows 6-11 once, and then go to Crown Decreasing Section. The hat should be about 5.5” deep. The crown will add an additional 2.5”. 

For Slouch Version only, work Rows 15-29 below: Rows 15-29: Repeat Rows 6-14 once, then Rows 6-11 once more. Go to Crown Decreasing Section. The hat should be about 8” deep. The crown will add an additional 2.5”. 

Crown Decreasing 

Next Row (RS): Ch 3, do not turn. *DC DEC over the next 2 dc, DC in each of the next 2 dc; rep from * around, join with Sl St to 3rd ch of starting ch-3. (82 [88, 94] dc. You have decreased approximately ¼ of your sts). 

Next Row (RS): Rep Row 12. 

Next Row (WS): Rep Row 14. 

Next Row (RS): Ch 1, turn. SC in 1st sc, *Ch 2, Sk 2 sc, SC in next sc; rep from * to end of row, join with Sl St to 1st sc. (27 [29, 31] ch-2 sp).

Next Row (RS): Ch 3, do not turn. 3 DC-Cluster in 1st ch-sp, Ch 1, *3 DC-Cluster in next ch sp, Ch 1; rep from * around, join with Sl St to 3rd ch of starting ch-3. (27 [29, 31] Clusters). 

Next Row (RS): Ch 3, do not turn. DC in top of 1st 3 DC-Cluster, *DC in top of next 3Dc-Cluster; rep from *, join with Sl St to 3rd ch of starting ch-3. (28 [30, 32] dc). 

Next Row (RS): Ch 3, do not turn. *DC DEC over next 2 dc; rep from * to end of round, DC in rem st. Join with Sl St to 3rd ch of starting ch-3. (15 [16, 17] st).

Next Row (RS): Ch 3, do not turn. *DC DEC over next 2 dc; rep from * to end of round, DC in rem dc for size Md, join with Sl St to 3rd ch of starting ch-3. (8 [9, 9] st). 

Cut yarn, leaving an 8” tail. Fasten off. Use a yarn needle to slip through top of all of the sts in last row; pull tight to close. 

Finishing Brim First sew the ends of Rows 1 and 2 closed using either yarn or sewing thread. Try on hat to decide if you will be adding elastic to the brim. The elastic will keep the brim from stretching out after use, so I suggest it unless you prefer a loose fitting brim. 

If using elastic, cut a piece about ¾” longer than desired length, then sew ends together, overlapping the extra ¾”. Turn hat inside out; fold up on marked fold line at the Row 3 of Brim. If using elastic, insert into fold. Using yarn or sewing thread on wrong side of hat, stitch unused loops of starting chain to Row 5 of Brim.  

Remove marker. Weave in ends. Lightly steam block hat to increase floppiness. Enjoy!

The Original Pattern can be found at
http://www.knitpicks.com/patterns/Hyde_Park_Hat__D55699220.html

Free Pattern of the Week!

This weeks free pattern is Alumni Scarf from KnitPicks.

Finished Measurements 4.25” wide x 72” long
Needles US 4 (3.5mm) straight or short circular needles

Not your typical rib pattern, this scarf combines two Knit/Purl combinations to create an instant classic for men or women. The Knit/Purl combinations are easy to learn, and the rhythm will have this piece knitted up in no time. The weight of the scarf and the slight stretch of the alpaca as the scarf increases will contribute a little to the end length. 

Stitch Pattern (worked flat over multiples of 10 sts plus 5) 

Row 1: K5, *P5, K5; repeat from * to end of row. 

Row 2: K1, *P1, K1; repeat from * to end of row. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for pattern 

Directions 

CO 45 sts. Work Stitch Pattern until piece measures approximately 72”, ending with a Row 1. 

When joining new yarn balls, be sure to start at the beginning or end of a row to avoid bumps in the pattern. On next row, BO (not too tightly). 

Finishing Weave in ends; block scarf ends if needed. Blocking is not necessary for scarf body, but can be done if desired. 

The Original Pattern can be found at
http://www.knitpicks.com/patterns/Alumni_Scarf__D55696220.html

Free Pattern of the Week!

This weeks free pattern is Eyeballs from KnitPicks.

Finished Measurements 1.25” diameter small eyeball, 1.75” diameter medium eyeball, 2.25” l diameter large eyeball.
Needles US 5 (3.75mm) DPNs, or size to obtain gauge

These eyeballs are knitted in the round from the bottom to the top. The pattern offers three sizes of eyeballs. Display various sizes and colors in a glass jar on a mantel for a great conversations starter. When changing colors just tie the ends together. There is no need to weave in ends! The total yardage per one eyeball: Large eyeball: 11 yards MC, 2 yards C1, 4 yards C2 (or C3, C4) Medium eyeball: 6 yards MC, 2 yards C1, 4 yards C2 (or C3, C4) Small eyeball: 4 yards MC, 1 yard C1, 3 yards C2 (or C3, C4) 

Directions 

Large Eyeball 

Using DPN, with MC cast on 6 sts and divide evenly on 3 needles. Place marker, being careful not to twist, join to begin working in the round. 

Round 1: Knit around. 

Round 2: KFB around, 12sts total. 

Round 3: Knit around. 

Round 4: * KFB, K1; repeat from * around: 6sts per needle, 18sts total. 

Round 5: Knit around. 

Round 6: * KFB, K1; repeat from * around: 9sts per needle, 27sts total. 

Round 7 -9: Knit around. 

Round 10: * KFB, K2; repeat from * around: 12sts per needle, 36sts total. 

Round 11 - 13: Knit around. 

Round 14: * SSK, K2; repeat from * around: 9sts per needle, 27sts total. 

Round 15 - 16: Knit around. Cut MC. Attach C2 (or C3, C4) 

Round 17: Knit around. 

Round 18: * SSK, K1; repeat from * around: 6sts per needle, 18sts total. 

Round 19: Knit around. Thread the tail of yarn from the cast on stitches on a yarn needle. Stitch through all of the cast on stitches, pull up tight to close the hole, and stitch to secure. Begin to stuff the eyeball with fiberfill. 

Round 20: * SSK, K1; repeat from * around: 4sts per needle, 12sts total. Cut C2 (or C3, C4). Attach C1. 

Round 21: Knit around. 

Round 22: SSK around: 2sts per needle, 6sts total. 

Finish stuffing. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread yarn needle with tail. Weave through remaining sts, gathering tightly to close; stitch to secure. 

Medium Eyeball

Using DPN, with MC cast on 6 sts and divide evenly on 3 needles. Place marker, being careful not to twist, join to begin working in the round. 

Round 1: Knit around. 

Round 2: KFB around, 12sts total. 

Round 3: Knit around. 

Round 4: * KFB, K1; repeat from * around: 6sts per needle, 18sts total. 

Round 5: Knit around. 

Round 6: * KFB, K1; repeat from * around: 9sts per needle, 27sts total. 

Round 7 -9: Knit around. Cut MC. Attach C2 (or C3, C4) 

Round 10: * SSK, K1; repeat from * around: 6sts per needle, 18sts total. 

Round 11: Knit around. Thread the tail of yarn from the cast on stitches on a yarn needle. Stitch through all of the cast on stitches, pull up tight to close the hole, and stitch to secure. Begin to stuff the eyeball with fiberfill. 

Round 12: * SSK, K1; repeat from * around: 4sts per needle, 12sts total. Cut C2 (or C3, C4). Attach C1.

Round 13: Knit around. 

Round 14: SSK around: 2sts per needle, 6sts total. 

Finish stuffing. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread yarn needle with tail. Weave through remaining sts, gathering tightly to close; stitch to secure. 

Small Eyeball 

Using DPN, with MC cast on 9 sts and divide evenly on 3 needles. Place marker, being careful not to twist, join to begin working in the round. 

Round 1: Knit around. 

Round 2: * KFB, K2; repeat from * around: 4sts per needle, 12sts total. 

Round 3: * KFB, K3; repeat from * around: 5sts per needle, 15sts total. 

Round 4 - 5: Knit around. Cut MC. Attach C2 (or C3, C4) 

Round 6: Knit around. Thread the tail of yarn from the cast on stitches on a yarn needle. Stitch through all of the cast on stitches, pull up tight to close the hole, and stitch to secure. Begin to stuff the eyeball with fiberfill. 

Round 7: * SSK, K3; repeat from * around: 4sts per needle, 12sts total. Cut C2 (or C3, C4). Attach C1. 

Round 8: * SSK, K2; repeat from * around: 3sts per needle, 9sts total. 

Round 9: Knit around. 

Finish stuffing. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread yarn needle with tail. Weave t

The Original Pattern can be found at
http://www.knitpicks.com/patterns/Eyeballs__D55679220.html

Backpacking Checklist

Backpacking Checklist

Being an Outdoor Guide means that everyone asks you questions. Here are some tips and tricks that you can use!

The Ten Essentials

For safety, survival and basic comfort:

1. Navigation

• Map (with protective case)
• Compass
• GPS (optional)
• Altimeter (optional)

2. Sun protection

• Sunscreen
• Lip balm
• Sunglasses

3. Insulation

• Jacket, vest, pants, gloves, hat (see Clothing, below)

4. Illumination

• Headlamp or flashlight
• Extra batteries

5. First-aid supplies

• First-aid kit

6. Fire

• Matches or lighter
• Waterproof container
• Fire starter (for emergency survival fire)

7. Repair kit and tools

• Knife or multi-tool
• Repair kits for stove, mattress; duct tape strips

8. Nutrition

• Extra day's supply of food

9. Hydration

• Water bottles or hydration reservoirs
  
• Water filter or other treatment system

10. Emergency shelter

• Tent, tarp, bivy or reflective blanket

Beyond the Ten Essentials

• Backpack
• Daypack or summit pack
• Pack cover
• Tent, tarp or bivy sack (with stakes, guylines)
• Tent-pole repair sleeve
• Footprint (if desired for tent)
• Sleeping bag
• Stuff sack or compression sack
• Sleeping pad
• Pillow or stuffable pillow case
• Whistle (plus signaling mirror)
• Multifunction watch with altimeter
• Trekking poles
• Ice axe
• Meals
• Energy food (bars, gels, chews, trail mix)
• Energy beverages or drink mixes
• Stove
• Fuel
• Cookset (with pot grabber)
• Dishes or bowls
• Utensils
• Cups (measuring cups)
• Bear canister (or hang bags for food)
• Nylon cord (50' for hanging food)
• Backup water treatment
  
• Collapsible sink or container
• Packable lantern

Clothing: Warm Weather

• Wicking T-shirt (synthetic or wool)
• Wicking underwear
• Quick-drying pants or shorts
• Long-sleeve shirt (for sun, bugs)
• Sun-shielding hat
• Bandana or Buff

Clothing: Cool Weather

• Wicking long-sleeve T-shirt
• Wicking long underwear (good sleepwear)
• Hat, cap, skullcap, balaclava or headband
• Gloves or mittens
• Rainwear (jacket, pants)
• Fleece jacket or vest, and pants

Footwear; Assorted Personal Items

• Hiking Boots or hiking shoes suited to terrain
• Socks (synthetic or wool) plus spares
• Gaiters
• Sandals (for fording, in camp)
• Camera or helmet cam
• Extra memory cards
• Binoculars
• Permits
• Route description or guidebook
• Field guide(s); star identifier
• Outdoor journal and pen or pencil
• Credit card; small amount of cash
• Earplugs and eye shade
• Toilet paper
• Sanitation trowel
• Hand sanitizer
• Insect repellent
• Bear spray
• Toothbrush and/or toiletry kit
• Biodegradable soap (and shower bag)
• Quick-dry towel
• Cell phone / satellite communicator / 2-way radios
• Personal locator beacon
• Post-hike snacks, water, towel, clothing change
• Trip itinerary left with friend and under car seat

Article and others like it found at REI.com

Free Pattern of the Week!

This weeks free pattern is Dancing Shells Dishcloth from KnitPicks.

Finished Measurements 9” x 8.5”, blocked
Hook US I/9 (5.5mm) hooks

The shell stitch is a popular crochet stitch, but this dishcloth is taking it a step further. The dancing raised shells gives an interesting texture to look at and works double duty when washing your dishes! 

FPdc – Front Post Double Crochet Raised Double Crochet stitch is worked around the post of dc stitch 2 rows below (skipping over the sc row), creating a dc from front to back and around. 

Directions 

Chain 31. 

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch, sc across. Ch 3 turn. (30 sts) Row 2 (RS): Skip first 2 sc, *3 dc in next sc, skip 1 sc, 1 dc in next sc, skip next sc, repeat from * across; 3 dc in last sc; ch1, turn. Row 3: Sc in each st across, ch 3 turn. 

Row 4: Ch 3 counts as first dc, *skip next sc, dc in next sc (center st of row below shell) *skip next sc, work 3 FPdc around dc 1 row below next sc,. Repeat from * across, 1 dc in last st. ch 1, turn 

Row 5: sc in each st across, ch 3, turn. 

Row 6: Ch 3 counts as first dc, skip next 2 sc, *work 3 FPdc around dc 1 row below next sc, skip next sc, dc center st of the row below cluster, Repeat from * across, 1 dc in last st. ch 1, turn 

Repeat rows 3 – 6 four more times. 

Repeat rows 3 – 4 once 

Last row: sc in each st across. 

Finishing Weave in ends, wash and block to size. 

The Original Pattern can be found at http://www.knitpicks.com/patterns/Dancing_Shells_Crochet_Dishcloth__D55587220.html

Is Your Baking Soda Fresh?

Baking soda is used in a million cleaning and cooking recipes, but how do you know if it still fresh? Here are simple step by step instructions on how to check whether you should use that baking soda or not.

You Need

-Baking Soda
-Really Hot tap water
-White or apple cider vinegar

1. Mix 1/2 cup Hot Water with 1/4 teaspoon of vinegar

2. Add 1/4 Teaspoon of Baking Soda

3. If there is immediate fizzing or bubbling your baking soda is still good. If not, It is time to get a new batch. 

Free Pattern of the Week!

This weeks free pattern is Market Day Dishcloth from KnitPicks.

Finished Measurements 9.5 x 9”
Needles US 7 (4.5mm) straight or circular needles

 Market Day is a fun textured dishcloth worked with knits and purls. It is very easy and is a good choice for beginner knitters. The high relief textures makes for a very useful dishcloth. 

Garter stitch (worked flat) All rows: knit Basket weave Pattern (worked flat, over a multiple of 6 sts) Row 1 (RS): knit 

Row 2 : purl. Row 3: *k1, p4, k1, repeat from *. 

Row 4: *p1, k4, p1, repeat from *. 

Rows 5-6: repeat rows 3-4. 

Rows 7-8: repeat rows 1-2. 

Row 9: *p2, k2, p2, repeat from *. 

Row 10: *k2, p2, k2, repeat from *. 

Row 11-12: repeat rows 9-10: . 

Directions

Cast on 44 sts. Work 8 rows in garter sts. 

Row 1 (RS): knit 

Row 2 : k4, purl to last 4 sts, k4. 

Row 3: k4, *k1, p4, k1, repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4. 

Row 4: k4, *p1, k4, p1, repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4. 

Rows 5-6: repeat rows 3-4. 

Rows 7-8: repeat rows 1-2. 

Row 9: k4, *p2, k2, p2, repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4 

Row 10: k4, *k2, p2, k2, repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4. 

Row 11-12: repeat rows 9-10: 

Repeat rows 1-12 another 2 times. 

Repeat Rows 1-7. Work 7 rows in garter stitch. Bind off. 

Finishing Weave in ends, wash and block gently

The Original Pattern can be found at 

http://www.knitpicks.com/patterns/Market_Day_Dishcloth__D55802220.html